C’est tout ce que j’aime

The explosion of take out culture: the death knell of the Parisian identity or merely an embrace of “modernity?”

-Jayme Hervé

Paris, the world capital of art, culture, and romance is as unlikely a centre of high paced, high stress, fast food as any. Indeed, the image of two young poor aspiring artists passing hours away sipping cafés and revelling in the sunshine on the terrace of a bistro overlooking one of the city’s many extravagant boulevards, is as embedded a stereotype in the minds of foreigners alike as the baguette, or the abominable béret.

But something awful, appalling, inconceivable has arisen in the city of light: le Starbucks. Yes even mighty France, with its alleged denunciation and rejection of everything American has fallen prey to the latest incarnation of globalization. Amidst great consternation and diverging opinion, the first Starbucks opened in January 2004. Critics were understandably afraid that this posed a great threat to the city’s famed café culture. After all, this is the home of countless literary giants known for partaking in the afternoon coffee culture of the early twentieth century. The likes of Sartre, Camus, Hemingway, Pound, and Joyce reign supreme, creating an allure which to this day, still draws wanderers and drifters in droves to the mecca of art. Yes, those seeking refuge from the encroaching global consumerist culture in the bosom of France were very afraid.

Today it is Starbucks which reigns supreme. In just four short years, the coffee giant has experienced phenomenal growth, now operating 35 stores in Paris proper. One might be inclined to suggest that given Paris’ cosmopolitan and tourist identity, the Seattle coffee chain is merely catering to a foreign clientele. While it may be true that Starbucks remains popular amongst expats and tourists alike, it is undeniable that the French have embraced it with open arms. Walk into any Starbucks in town and you are likely to hear the familiar chit chat of the Parisian folk as they anxiously await their moyen café latté before jettisoning off to work.

But should we really be surprised by Starbucks’ success? McDonald’s has maintained a presence in the French capital for over thirty years. Along with Quick (a Belgian fast food chain), “Macdo” as the French so lovingly refer to it, is the premier provider of low-cost, low-value lunch in France. If you should be so willing to try a taste of America, then stand in line behind the endless supply of insatiable “ados” (teenagers) for a chance to fork over a cool 6-7 Euros for a Big Mac (le menu, bien sûr). The precedent has been set.

Does this mean that Starbucks is but the latest American corporate giant to stamp out “small businessman” France? Are the consequences of globalization or “Americanization” so dire that they are effectively wiping out the French existence, suffocating the creative and artistic freedom synonymous with Paris? No, far from it, Paris perseveres. Though American in origin and menu, there is something alarmingly French about dining out at Macdo, which has evolved throughout the years to become fully ingrained into the Parisian fold. McDonald’s and Starbucks are but just two of a seemingly endless supply of made to order entities. For every Starbucks or McDonald’s there is a Brioche Dorée, Pomme de Pain, or Quick.

No, the success of the two American giants is merely telling of an evolving phenomenon witnessed throughout much of the world. From New York to Paris to Tokyo to Delhi, efficiency and speed are increasingly celebrated. In the high stakes race to the finish, many appreciate the convenience take out restaurants provide. It is “modernity,” not simply the restaurants themselves, that is the driving force behind this change.

Is it the end of civilization as we know it? Hardly. It’s merely the times we live in. So give yourself a break. Bite into that Big Mac or guzzle down a venti mocha frappuccino (health concerns aside) should you be in the mood. Or should the thought of sucking from the corporate teat remain so deplorable to you, take a pass and breathe in the pleasantries of haute culture at your local café. Fear not, either way, civilization will endure. Paris will always be Paris. One thing’s for sure, 1928 is long gone.