The Pink Pony - A Neighborhood Classic

The Lower East Side's Pink Pony exudes laid-back, unpretentious cool - cool like a coffee shop right off-campus, cool like a showcase for up-and-coming bands, cool like a cafe for poetry readings and performance art. With all that and more permeating the walls of this 35-year-old neighborhood mainstay, the “cool” comes as no shock. And though its focus is now more on eats, the historical ambience is ever present.

Jonathan, Gacin and I felt it on a recent dinner soiree. Huge storefront windows, high tin ceilings, book-lined walls, snippets of wall-scrawled poetry, black-and-white photos, an amazingly eclectic jukebox and an open-to-view kitchen - all add to the sense of comfortable tenacity. As does the food!

We started with Jumbo Grilled Shrimp and Salsa ($12) and a Mesclun Salad with Chicken ($9). The shrimp and salsa was delectable (though “jumbo” is a misnomer) and the salad, with its subtle red wine vinaigrette, was light and satisfying. Our entrees (all ample) included Steak au Poivre ($19), Roast Chicken ($16) and Tuna Melt ($9). The steak was tender and flavorful with a luscious lemony butter and pepper dipping sauce and perfectly fried accompanying potatoes. The tuna melt, with side salad, was likewise tasty but the chicken was absolutely scrumptious - moist, succulent and perfectly spiced. Desserts included a Flourless Chocolate Cake and Tarte Tatin Apple Pie (both $7). Each was quite delicious, and the delightfully dense, rich chocolate quickly alleviated my initial skepticism at “flourless” cake.

The Pink Pony, all about laid-back comfort, will warm your soul and your tummy. A quote on the wall by poet Rene Ricard captures its essence, “please hold me the forgotten way.” The Pink Pony really does.--David Douglas

The Pink Pony, 176 Ludlow Street (betw. Houston & Stanton), 212-253-1922, www.pinkponynyc.com