Suenos - Authentic Mexican Cuisine with Passionate Flair

Lovers of authentic Mexican cuisine will absolutely adore Suenos -- it's a delight through-and-through. The place exudes a happy passion and its tasty eats, fabulous decor, innovative cocktails and superlative service meld beautifully for a scrumptiously memorable dining experience.

To start, our buoyant server urged us to try the Guacamole with Chile de Arbol Corn Tortillas & Tostadas ($6 per person). It's made to order right before your eyes by a cocinera (“tortilla lady”) on a raised platform in the main dining room. It was, not surprisingly, the freshest we'd ever had, but happily it also satisfied our finicky “mildly spicy” request perfectly and was ideally blended--meaty but not too chunky. We also tried the Sweet Plantain & Drunken Goat Cheese Empanadas ($9). These morsels were smooth and savory, accented by a divine tomato-chipotle coulis that offered a perfect “kick” without overpowering.

Our entrees? Well, they were simply awesome. I'm not big on fish dishes, but when I tasted Wes' Coriander Crusted Tuna ($23) I was blown away. This dish was a luscious treat—crisp, yet light, with a wonderfully moist, flavorful center. And the accompanying mix of black beans, avocado and organic greens was sublime. I almost became jealous until I tasted my Chile Rubbed Goat ($25). I'd never tried goat, so I had trepidations, but they were quickly relieved. It was excellent, tastier than a well-cooked pot roast—with the tender and oh-so-succulent meat surrendering willingly from the bone.

Wes pleaded “too full” for dessert, but I urged him to try one that I might taste. He scarfed his Serrano Chile Key Lime Pie ($10)—no bite for me! That speaks for itself. But I wasn't too disappointed. I consumed my delicious Guava & Cream Cheese Empanadas in Mango Sauce ($9) with equal gusto.

With Suenos chef/owner Sue Torres raises the bar for Mexican cuisine. She is, truly, a genuine culinary wonder. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in 1991 and assisting at venues like 21 Club and La Grenouille, she became Executive Chef at Chelsea's Rocking Horse Cafe Mexicano. Though only 25, her innovative creations garnished widespread acclaim, with the New York Times calling hers “the most exciting Mexican food in the city.” Later, while Executive Chef at Hell's Kitchen, Working Woman magazine named her one of “20 Under 30” to watch. With Suenos(Spanish for “dreams”) Sue realizes her own dream - a venue all her own. Her passion shines through in every morsel and in every detail—and it's a passion well worth sharing.—David Douglas

Suenos, 311 West 17th St, 212-243-1333, www.suenosnyc.com