El Cocotero - Venezuelan Victuals with Verve!

El Cocotero's diminutive size and menu belie its robust feeling and flavor. An almost tangible sensuality permeates the place—steamy and sultry—somehow apt for the Venezuelan treats dished up therein. It's no wonder. Since owner Luis Quintero grew up preparing many of the same dishes for his siblings in Venezuela his culinary skill springs from an innate passion. He cooks what he likes to eat and, as a result, you'll probably like what he cooks. Orie and I certainly did.

We started with two really refreshing drinks from El Cocotero's delightfully unique selection. At Luis' urging, Orie tried the Papelon con Limon ($4.50). This Venezuelan mainstay of brown sugar-infused homemade limeade gives the best iced tea a real run for the money. My Chicha con Arroz ($5), a shake of rice and sweetened milk, proved equally enticing. Such tasty libations had us eagerly anticipating our appetizers, two of El Cocotero's arepas—another Venezuelan specialty. My Arepitas con Nata ($4.95) were light yet crispy; Orie's Arepitas con Anise y Nata ($4.95) were perfect, their sweet flavor punctuated adroitly by anise seed.

Arepas are practically the national dish of Venezuela. Made of corn flour, they are Venezuela's answer to other countries' breads and are prepared and eaten with almost everything—cheese, jam, meat, chicken, eggs—you name it! The most traditional form is the la reina pepiada, made with chopped meat, avocado and cheese. You'll find arepas everywhere in Venezuela, but some of the best can be savored in small specialty restaurants called areperas.

Our main selections, two Venezuelan-style pressed sandwiches, were also delicious. My Mechada ($8.95), made with stewed shredded flank steak, literally dripped with flavor. Orie's Pollo con Aguacate ($8.95), grilled chicken with avocado, onion and cilantro, was more contained but no less exuberant in taste. Both came with lovely side salads adorned with amazingly tasty lime and orange vinaigrettes—sublime simplicity! Orie had to rush back to work, but I stayed for coffee and a slice of El Cocotero's Quesillo ($5.50). I'm glad I did. This pastry of creme caramel caressed with a touch of cinnamon and garnished with fresh strawberries was wonderful.

Lovers of Venezuelan food already flock to El Cocotero and the constant presence of many Venezuelan nationals is a testament to the quality and authenticity of this fine fare. In fact, business has been so good that Luis tells me they are expanding! Within a month, folks can also enjoy El Cocotero Tapas and Wine adjacent to the current location. Trust me, with food this good, you'll want to join them.—David Douglas

El Cocotero, 228 West 18th St, 212-206-8930, www.elcocotero-restaurant.com